Archive for the ‘root injury’ Category

Fritillarias – Very Different Spring Flowering Bulb

Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis), aka fritillaria, is an impressive spring flowering bulb that is native of Southwestern Asia to the Himalayas (USDA hardiness zones 5-8). In late April to May, large drooping orange, red, or yellow bell-shaped flowers are topped by a small pineapple-like tufts of leaf-like bracts. The leafy fringe on top resembles a […]

Butterfly Weed – Long-lived Flowering Perennial That Nourish Monarchs

Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa), aka butterfly weed, is a tuberous rooted perennial native in the Eastern and southern U.S. (USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9). It grows in dry/rocky open woodlands, prairies, farm fields, and along roadsides. Individual plants typically grow as a clump to 1- 3 feet high and 1 ½ feet wide. Unlike many of […]

Should You Plant In Fall?

            Should you plant in the Fall? It depends what region you live in, what month in fall, and what species you’re planting. If you live in the mid-Atlantic, coastal New England, or Southeastern U.S., fall is an excellent time to set most hardy plants. Most (not all) trees, shrubs, perennials, […]

Trees And Shrubs That Grow In Poorly Drained Soils

If a section of your landscape is poorly drained, there are a number of trees and shrubs that will adapt over time to short periods of wet or soggy soils. Plant roots must survive in low oxygen soils. Your choices of plants are not lengthy; few landscape plants will not tolerate root suffocation for even […]

DOs and DON’Ts Checklist Before Purchasing Plants

When shopping at the garden center don’t bring home problem plants. “Plants On Sale” should raise a caution flag. Thoroughly inspect all sale plants. They may have been sitting many months with the pots now full of weeds, diseases, or pest problems. They become tightly potbound and roots will need to be teased apart prior […]

Why Some Crapemyrtles Do Not Flower

There are several probable reasons why your crape myrtle did not flower this summer. The two leading reasons are lack of adequate daily sunlight and planting depth. Crape myrtles should be planted in full sun. They don’t flower well in locations receiving less than 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. If the leaves are […]

The Right Rhododendron for the Right Location

Rhododendrons (Rhododendron catawbiense) were born in the cool of the North Carolina and Tennessee mountains. Hundreds of  lovely hybrids have been bred by dedicated plantsmen. Winter hardiness is rarely an issue, but rhododendrons are challenged by summer heat and disease problems in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA hardiness zones 6 and 7).  Your most important decision is […]

General Tree/Shrub Fertilizer Recommendations

  Fertilize most landscape shrubs and trees in winter or early spring with a granular 10-10-10 at a rate of 20 lbs. per 1,000 square feet when the ground cover is dry. A 19-19-19 fertilizer is distributed at 10 lbs per 1000 square feet. Distribute within an area 3 feet out from the trunk or shrub crown and […]

What Can Be Done About Phytophthora

Phytophthora disease (Phytophthora spp.) is the fatal cause of root rots, stem cankers and crown rots. Several hundred species of plants are susceptible, including redbuds, dogwoods, rhododendrons, camellias, white pines, firs, yews (Taxus spp.), and fruit trees. It thrives in warm moist saturated soils. Phytophthora may lie dormant in the soil for several years, waiting for a […]

Root Injury to Container Plants

The 4 most common reasons why gardeners lose outdoor container plants during the winters are:1. Sub-freezing temps2. Soil freezing for long periods3. Waterlogged roots4. Dessication from dry winter winds Roots are not as cold hardy as above-ground shoots, trunks, branches, etc. Evergreen plants become more challenged when the soil media is frozen. Their leaves demand […]